Big Al Carson

Finally, we returned to New Orleans, some 15 months after the devastation of Hurricane Katrina. The city was stoic and valiant, determined to regrow, despite the incredible damage and having lost half its population. Recovery is slow: hospitals and schools yet to reopen, whole neighbourhoods lying in ruins, State police and National Guard still bolstering the local constabulary, tourist numbers way down. Happily, the historic Garden District and French Quarter remained largely unscathed, and we were delighted to see -- and hear -- the jazz and blues and other live music being played proud and loud. One of my fondest acts is Big Al Carson, who holds a residency in the Funky Pirate on Bourbon with the Bluesmasters, and we made that intimate club one of our first ports of call. Big Al was in form, straddling his seat, flashing his gold rings, turning on the charm for the ladies and belting out blues standards and his own material in his own inimitable style. My only complaint would be that the sets seemed a little short, but there's no doubting the good time vibe this tight little outfit puts out. Picture: Mil Clayton